BEFORE going in heart and mind even unto Bethlehem, try Florence. Winter in Tuscany, by Amber Guinness, is a mouthwatering collection from a region renowned for its food. Valentina Solfrini has photographed places as well as plates; so there’s a travelogue element, aided by intelligent essays from Guinness, who grew up between Siena and Montalcino. She writes about the area, infused with memories and knowledge about the produce, and “the rugged, decisive flavours of Tuscan cuisine”. A chestnut and mushroom peposo (peppery stew) nestles with a radicchio, gorgonzola, and walnut lasagne. Soups, salads, vegetable dishes, and sweet treats — plenty of winners here, and it’s gorgeous.
More Italianismo is on offer in Skye McAlpine’s The Christmas Companion, which richly deserves to become part of the seasonal canon. She also spent her childhood in Italy, and it shines through these pages. The recipes are comprehensive for the whole festive period, and there’s everything: cakes, puddings, snacks, drinks, salads, leftovers, roasts. McAlpine offers much in the way of planning, beyond the menus, and how to make almost anything — cards, wreaths, Advent calendars, Christmas decorations, and even crackers. She describes the book as “a dream come true for me. I love Christmas.” Her enthusiasm is inspiring.
© Sky McAlpineGingerbread trifle, from Sky McAlpine’s The Christmas Companion
Karan Gokani, the co-founder of Hoppers restaurants, brings blissful simplicity to Indian 101. Geographical insight combines with a deft approach to flavours and techniques. There is so much to discover here, from a range of rice dishes to a variety of breads. Lovers of curries and dals will not be disappointed, either. It is perfect for anyone at a loss on where to start with cooking an Indian meal.
For hearty fare, Ginger Pig One Pot, by Tim Wilson and Rebecca Seal, is a compendium of meat-led courses that embody the expertise of the prestigious Ginger Pig chain of butchers — although not everything is carnivorous. Ratatouille with goats’ cheese, for example, or smoked-haddock broth with poached eggs, match oxtail stew with horseradish dumplings, or smoky chicken livers with sherry and parsley. Sam A. Harris’s photography helps to make the mouth water and bring this thoughtful collection alive. It is also educational, and features food for any type of meal.
Matthew Ryle is a young chef with more than two million followers on Instagram, where his reels seek “to remind people of dishes they once loved but have forgotten”. French Classics is compiled from the menus of his two London restaurants, and lovingly so. It underscores how French flavours and methods are central to so much cooking, and he divides his recipes between “Easy” and “Elevated”, with tips and advice aplenty. From a simple omelette or bouillabaisse to tartiflette and raspberry soufflés, they are delicious. Sumptuous photos. Recommended.
The Revd Simon Walsh is a cookery writer, journalist, and priest.
Winter in Tuscany
Amber Guinness
Thames & Hudson £29.99
978-1-76076-546-0
Church Times Bookshop £26.99
The Christmas Companion: Recipes, crafts and inspiration for a magical festive season
Skye McAlpine
Bloomsbury £28
(978-1-5266-8157-7)
Church Times Bookshop £25.20
Indian 101: Real Indian recipes made simple
Karan Gokani
Pan Macmillan £28
(978-1-0350-6698-8)
Church Times Bookshop £25.20
Ginger Pig One Pot: More than 140 deliciously simple one-pot recipes
Tim Wilson and Rebecca Seal
Octopus Publishing Group £30
(978-1-78472-921-9)
Church Times Bookshop £27
French Classics: Easy and elevated recipes to cook at home
Matthew Ryle
Bloomsbury £26
(978-1-5266-8551-3)
Church Times Bookshop £23.40
