There’s something incredibly romantic about train travel. Possibly because it’s often associated with black and white films and a world where the pace of life was slower. It’s no wonder experiences like the Orient Express are high on many people’s bucket lists, as they offer an old-fashioned way to see the world, while delivering plush accommodation.
The Orient Express is iconic but a pricey experience, with prices on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express starting at around £3,800+ for cabins. For those who want to ride the rails without the hefty price tag, there are other luxury train journeys throughout Europe that deliver great experiences for a fraction of the cost. One can be found in Northern Spain, onboard one of the most unlikely of engines: a former coal train.
La Robla Express once operated on the line between the areas of León and Palencia to Vizcaya, providing coal to the thriving steel industry of the north in the late 19th century.
After the industry declined, the track fell into disuse, and the beautiful old trains remained locked away in storage sheds. That is, until the early 2000s, when the Spanish train company RENFE decided to revive the line and reinvent the old engines as a traveling hotel, allowing passengers to explore the beauty of this part of the country. The company launched its maiden journey in 2009 and this train has offered a unique experience since then.
Nowadays, La Robla Express offers two popular routes. There’s the La Robla Route, which takes three days and two nights, either from Bilbao to Leon or vice versa. For real rail enthusiasts, there’s the longer Pilgrim’s Route taking six days and five nights, covering a larger part of the Camino de Santiago route.
On La Robla Route, you’ll enjoy stops in towns such as Frómista, known for its medieval architecture, and the Roman villa of La Olmeda. There are excursions available at different stops to give you time to explore.
On the longer Pilgrim’s Route, you’ll see more of the north of Spain including Oviedo, famous for its gothic cathedral and home to a number of UNESCO sites. You’ll travel through the lush green countryside of Northern Spain, including stops along the unspoilt coast in Ferrol and A Coruña.
Departure dates run from June to September in 2026, making the most of the mild weather in this part of Spain. The north tends to be cooler than the more touristy coastal areas of Southern Spain, plus there’s onboard air conditioning for a comfortable ride.
By day, you can enjoy the views from your private compartment with its own bathroom that includes a sink and toilet. You can also wander around the train and choose a comfortable seat in the lounge, or enjoy a drink with fellow passengers.
At night, each compartment becomes a comfortable bedroom, 36.8 square feet in size, with fold down bunk beds. Bedrooms come with storage space, reading lights, and a music system, so you can enjoy a cosy spot to unwind. Best of all, unlike some sleeper services, the train stops for the night, so you don’t need to be worried about sudden movements disrupting your sleep.
There’s onboard dining in a plush dining car, with meals including a daily buffet breakfast and dinners that focus on local ingredients and dishes. However, there’s also the chance to dine in local restaurants at different stages of the itinerary, with guests being whisked to local eateries along the way.
The train’s shorter itinerary, La Robla Express, starts at just €2,600 for a double room, making it €1,300 per person. This includes full board, excursions and entrance fees, and all organised activities. For the longer Pilgrim’s Route, tickets start at €3,400 for two sharing a double room, meaning it offers an affordable alternative to luxury trains such as the Orient Express.
Find out more about La Robla and book train tickets online.
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